Extra Window Switch
Difficulty
Credit
Evilution
Cost
£20
For
Old Style 600cc For2
Old Style 700cc For2
Old Style 700cc For2
Extra Window Switch
Yes, the smart is narrow but the lack of passenger window control on the driver's side is unforgivable. This is double trouble if you own a
Yes, the smart is narrow but the lack of passenger window control on the driver's side is unforgivable. This is double trouble if you own a
Fitting The Window Kit
Remove the door handles with a Torx 25 and the four pocket screws with a Torx 20.
Pull the door cards off carefully and look directly down where the arrow
shows on the passenger side.
You will see a black connector that goes to the window motor; unplug the connector.
Pull the connector away from the door and cut the wire about 5cm away from the plug.
Join the green wire of the connector to the green wire with
the crimp connector with 'motor' on it.
Join the black wire of the connector to the black wire with
the crimp connector with 'motor' on it.
Crimp the connections, I used a pair of mole grips as I didn't have a crimping tool.
Join the remaining green wire to the green wire with the
crimp connector with 'schalter' on it.
Join the remaining black wire to the black wire with the
crimp connector with 'schalter' on it.
Schalter means 'switch' in German. Again, crimp the connections as above.
Tape all the wires together and reconnect the plug into the window motor.
Pull the connection off the back of the existing switch and find the Black/Yellow wire.
Locate the Blue/Red wire from the kit.
Using the red snap fit connector, join the Blue/Red and the Black/Yellow wires together.
Remove the guide from the front edge of the door by inserting a screwdriver into the top.
Unclip the 2 clips on the guide and fold it open.
The kit should have 2 remaining thin brown wires,
push them out of the hole and clip them into the retainer.
Clip the retainer back onto the door.
You can route the wires around the front panel with it still on but it is a lot more precise if you take the front panel off, that way you can trace the original wiring.
Zip tie the wires to whatever you can and route it to the other door.
As before, remove the guide, thread the wires in and replace the guide.
Pull the brown wires into the door and get your drill ready.
Drill a small pilot hole below the driver's side original window switch.
It's a good idea to disconnect the wiring so you don't drill through it.
Using a 19mm or 3/4 inch spade bit or hole boring bit,
drill a nice clean hole, tidy the edges up.
Take the switch found in the kit and using a snap fit connector connect the short brown wire from the centre of the switch to the brown wire on the connector you just pulled from the back of the existing switch.
Take the 2 crimp terminals from the kit and attach one each to the brown wires you previously routed around the front of the car. (I soldered my connections).
Thread the 3 brown wires through the new 19mm hole and attach to the new switch.
Test which is up and push the switch into the hole the right way up.
Replace the front of your car and the door cards. Job done.
How Does The Kit Work?
It's a very simple design based on the car's original wiring;
it uses two relays, one for up, one for down.
The Blue/Red wire in the kit connects to the 12 volt wire - when the small switch is activated it sends a current through the coil which switches the relay.
As the relay switches it sends a voltage to the motor on one relay
(depending on the direction of window travel), The voltage goes
through the motor and back down the original wiring.
At rest, the original switch is earthed on both sides so therefore completes the circuit.
Adapting The Kit
Previously I had thought it would have been good to have the window switches situated either side of the gear change housing. The idea was to use a pair of cabrio roof buttons and housings that clip onto either side. Hopefully I will be able to add this later on.
In the mean time, feel free to do it yourself. Here is the underside of the cabrio switch.
Pin 1 is not used,
Pin 2 is not present,
Pin 3 is a power output (up),
Pin 4 is a power output (down),
Pin 5 is the power input.
The voltage goes in through pin 5 and depending on which end of the switch is pressed,
it will output the power to either pin 3 or 4.
In the kit shown above, the 2 brown wires that usually go across the front of the car should be attached to either pin 3 or 4. The power can be taken from anywhere to pin 5.
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