451 Window Switch LEDs
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451 Window Switch LEDs
Change the SMD LEDs in the window switches
Change the SMD LEDs in the window switches
Most of the SMD LEDS on the 999cc Fortwo are PLCC-2 (TANTAL/B) and they
are a very common fitment. Some of these are dome lens type.
Some of the fiments are dome lens PLCC-4, this is unique to the new smart.
There are also some much smaller LEDs being used. These are 0805 package LEDs.
This is where I got mine from, clicky.
I'm Too Scared To Do This, Who Can I Pay?
CrazyLeds can change y
Dome Lens Info
The transparent dome narrows the spread of light and evens out the brightness.
SMD Orientation
Like most LEDs, they only work one way around. Standard LEDs are marked
with a single flat edge and 1 shorter leg. The SMD LEDs have a recessed
triangle in the corner, these are marked as red in the pictures.
Soldering SMD LEDs
The first job is to remove the existing LEDs, you have 3 ways to remove them:
1. Use two soldering irons, one on each joint and flick the LED off;
2. Use one soldering iron and a solder sucker, can be awkward because of the size;
3. Use one soldering iron and some solder wick to remove the excess.
Once the board has been purged of LEDs, clean the board up and flux the solder pads on the board and LEDs. Position one of the replacements and quickly solder each side.
The 'normal' way to solder is to touch the tip to the device and push the solder against the tip and the device until it melts. When soldering SMDs this isn't recommended as the heat will kill it.
It is better to melt the solder onto the tip and quickly dab the soldered tip onto the LED, this limits the heat transfer, flux will help the solder flow to the LED quickly shortening the time even more.
Once they have all been done, visually check the whole thing before testing, if any of
them don't work then check the solder joint and the orientation of the LED.
Window Switch LEDs
Wedge something between the door card and the underside of the handles and lever the
handle cover off. There is a clip where the arrow shows that holds the handle in place.
Pull the cover to unlatch all of the clips.
Pull the cover towards the front of the car to fully release it from the car.
Push down on the top of the drivers side window switch surround and pull back to unclip.
The surround will hinge down.
Disconnect both connections from the back.
The passenger side is similar but the surround stays in place, the switch is pulled out of the back in the same way the driver's side switches are slid out the rear of the surround.
Each switch has 2 catches on each side.
Use a narrow knife and carfully lever the back off the switch.
Tip out the PCB and take the silicone face off.
Swap the PLCC-2 LEDs over as before and reassemble.
Refit to the car and test them out.
Nice!
are a very common fitment. Some of these are dome lens type.
Some of the fiments are dome lens PLCC-4, this is unique to the new smart.
There are also some much smaller LEDs being used. These are 0805 package LEDs.
This is where I got mine from, clicky.
Dome Lens Info
The transparent dome narrows the spread of light and evens out the brightness.
SMD Orientation
Like most LEDs, they only work one way around. Standard LEDs are marked
with a single flat edge and 1 shorter leg. The SMD LEDs have a recessed
triangle in the corner, these are marked as red in the pictures.
Soldering SMD LEDs
The first job is to remove the existing LEDs, you have 3 ways to remove them:
1. Use two soldering irons, one on each joint and flick the LED off;
2. Use one soldering iron and a solder sucker, can be awkward because of the size;
3. Use one soldering iron and some solder wick to remove the excess.
Once the board has been purged of LEDs, clean the board up and flux the solder pads on the board and LEDs. Position one of the replacements and quickly solder each side.
The 'normal' way to solder is to touch the tip to the device and push the solder against the tip and the device until it melts. When soldering SMDs this isn't recommended as the heat will kill it.
It is better to melt the solder onto the tip and quickly dab the soldered tip onto the LED, this limits the heat transfer, flux will help the solder flow to the LED quickly shortening the time even more.
Once they have all been done, visually check the whole thing before testing, if any of
them don't work then check the solder joint and the orientation of the LED.
Window Switch LEDs
Wedge something between the door card and the underside of the handles and lever the
handle cover off. There is a clip where the arrow shows that holds the handle in place.
Pull the cover to unlatch all of the clips.
Pull the cover towards the front of the car to fully release it from the car.
Push down on the top of the drivers side window switch surround and pull back to unclip.
The surround will hinge down.
Disconnect both connections from the back.
The passenger side is similar but the surround stays in place, the switch is pulled out of the back in the same way the driver's side switches are slid out the rear of the surround.
Each switch has 2 catches on each side.
Use a narrow knife and carfully lever the back off the switch.
Tip out the PCB and take the silicone face off.
Swap the PLCC-2 LEDs over as before and reassemble.
Refit to the car and test them out.
Nice!
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