Roadster Speedo SMD LEDs
Difficulty
Credit
evilution
Cost
50p each
For
Roadster
Roadster Speedo SMD LEDs
The Roadster uses a great deal more surface mounted LEDs than the For2 which restricts the changing and what colour filters you can use.
The Roadster uses a great deal more surface mounted LEDs than the For2 which restricts the changing and what colour filters you can use.
Each of the SMD LEDS on the Roadster are PLCC-2 (TANTAL/B) and they
are a very common fitment and should cost less than 50p each.
On rare occasions, smart have used 4.0 x 4.0 right angled SMD LEDs
This is where I got mine from, clicky.
I'm Too Scared To Do This, Who Can I Pay?
CrazyLeds can change y
SMD Orientation
Like most LEDs, they only work one way around. Standard LEDs are marked with a single flat edge and 1 shorter leg. The SMD LEDs have a recessed triangle in the corner, these are marked as red in the pictures.
Soldering SMD LEDs
The first job is to remove the existing LEDs, you have 3 ways to remove them:
1. Use two soldering irons, one on each joint and flick the LED off;
2. Use one soldering iron and a solder sucker, can be awkward because of the size;
3. Use one soldering iron and some solder wick to remove the excess.
Once the board has been purged of LEDs, clean the board up and flux the solder pads on the board and LEDs. Position one of the replacements and quickly solder each side.
The 'normal' way to solder is to touch the tip to the device and push the
solder against the tip and the device until it melts. When soldering SMDs
this isn't recommended as the heat will kill it.
It is better to melt the solder onto the tip and quickly dab the soldered tip onto the LED, this limits the heat transfer, a flux pen will help the solder flow to the LED quickly shortening the time even more.
Once they have all been done, visually check the whole thing before testing, if any of
them don't work then check the solder joint and the orientation of the LED.
Roadster Speedo
Firstly you have to remove the speedo, strip the speedo down to access the PCB, read here
Straighten the 4 tabs so the LCD can be removed.
Gently pull the LCD from the front.
Unclip the tab on this side,
and the 2 tabs on the other end.
With that done, the plastic cover should come away from the rear.
Below shows the plan of the proceeding 4 pictures to give you an idea of placement.
As before, the orientation marks have been highlighted in red.
Left hand side right angled LCD backlight.
Right hand side right angled LCD backlight.
6 LEDs on the outer arc illuminate the speed,
6 LEDs on the middle arc illuminate the warning signals,
3 LEDs on the inner arc illuminate the needle.
The outer LEDs illuminate the Rev counter,
Middle LEDs illuminate the warning signals,
3 LEDs on the inner arc illuminate the needle.
After changing 16 LEDs:
3 for each needle (x2),
4 for the rev counter,
6 for the speedo.
This is what you get, you can't deny that it looks good.
Tipex (liquid paper) does a good job on this and dries very quickly.
are a very common fitment and should cost less than 50p each.
On rare occasions, smart have used 4.0 x 4.0 right angled SMD LEDs
This is where I got mine from, clicky.
SMD Orientation
Like most LEDs, they only work one way around. Standard LEDs are marked with a single flat edge and 1 shorter leg. The SMD LEDs have a recessed triangle in the corner, these are marked as red in the pictures.
Soldering SMD LEDs
The first job is to remove the existing LEDs, you have 3 ways to remove them:
1. Use two soldering irons, one on each joint and flick the LED off;
2. Use one soldering iron and a solder sucker, can be awkward because of the size;
3. Use one soldering iron and some solder wick to remove the excess.
Once the board has been purged of LEDs, clean the board up and flux the solder pads on the board and LEDs. Position one of the replacements and quickly solder each side.
The 'normal' way to solder is to touch the tip to the device and push the
solder against the tip and the device until it melts. When soldering SMDs
this isn't recommended as the heat will kill it.
It is better to melt the solder onto the tip and quickly dab the soldered tip onto the LED, this limits the heat transfer, a flux pen will help the solder flow to the LED quickly shortening the time even more.
Once they have all been done, visually check the whole thing before testing, if any of
them don't work then check the solder joint and the orientation of the LED.
Firstly you have to remove the speedo, strip the speedo down to access the PCB, read
Straighten the 4 tabs so the LCD can be removed.
Gently pull the LCD from the front.
Unclip the tab on this side,
and the 2 tabs on the other end.
With that done, the plastic cover should come away from the rear.
Below shows the plan of the proceeding 4 pictures to give you an idea of placement.
As before, the orientation marks have been highlighted in red.
Left hand side right angled LCD backlight.
Right hand side right angled LCD backlight.
6 LEDs on the outer arc illuminate the speed,
6 LEDs on the middle arc illuminate the warning signals,
3 LEDs on the inner arc illuminate the needle.
The outer LEDs illuminate the Rev counter,
Middle LEDs illuminate the warning signals,
3 LEDs on the inner arc illuminate the needle.
After changing 16 LEDs:
3 for each needle (x2),
4 for the rev counter,
6 for the speedo.
This is what you get, you can't deny that it looks good.
Tipex (liquid paper) does a good job on this and dries very quickly.
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