The anti-roll bar connection is generally not a problem as it can be held with a spanner.
The big problem is at the other end. The position of the fixing leaves it open to heavy corrosion.
Couple that with the recessed nature of the nut and the excess length of the stud and you have issues.
Here are the special tools required for the job. M10 x 1.5mm thread cleaning tool, Thread holding tool, 16mm
or 17mm deep ring spanner. The standard nut is 16mm but many replacement drop links use 17mm nuts.
Clean the thread up to ease the removal of the nut. If you can find a thread cleaning tool like this, great. If not
then try a wire brush. It's a good idea to spray the nut and the thread in copious amounts of penetrating fluid.
I couldn't find that tool so I bought a thread cleaning nut from one of those mobile MAC tool trucks.
I used a Dremel with a wire brush attachment to clean up the 1st few threads to get this on.
Spray the thread with oil and twist the thread cleaner on and off to help it clean and remove the rust.
Put on the deep ring spanner and screw the thread holder onto the stud. Hold the end of the
thread holder by the 17mm bolt head using another ring spanner. This stops the stud from
spinning as it presses against the end of the bolt inside the tool.
With the thread holder held steady, you can apply force to the 16mm nut to remove it.
When you refit the new drop link, you will be able to use the correct allen key in the end to stop the stud from
rotating as the new nut is fitted. Generally, the old drop link is far too corroded to use this method for removal.
I don't think it's something you can normally buy, Tolson made his on a metal lathe...
...and so did I. If you want one, I made a small batch. Contact smartmods.co.uk about buying one.
All the credit for this one goes to Tolsen. He was good enough to let me use anything that I
saw fit and this is a task I failed to complete a while back due to not having the right tools.