Fitting The Cruise Control Stalk
Firstly you need to get a cruise control stalk from smart, they retail for £55 inc VAT.
Cabrio stalk number 001 2540 V004 C96A 00
Coupe stalk number 001 2539 V004 C96A 00 (thanks J500ANT).
Remove the 4 Torx10 screws from under the speedo pod.
Get your fingers in the front lip and lift the speedo up to remove, tuck it out of the way.
This is what you will find.
Push in the plastic clip with your finger and pull the entire unit upwards.
On removal you can see how it is secured.
Push in the clip on the wiring connector and pull the plug out.
The lower one is the original, the upper one is the replacement stalk.
Connect the large plug, push it in until you hear a click.
Wiring The Cruise Control Stalk
Look at the wires coming from that large plug, somewhere along those wires will be
3 wires and a separate small plug folded back and taped down. Untape it.
Some Roadsters didn't come with this part of the wiring but it can be added easily and cheaply.
Look near the bottom of this page for the information on adding the wiring.
Plug the new 3 wired connection into the cruise control stalk.
Line up the 2 plastic pegs and the clip and push the new stalk in place.
Replace the speedo and tighten the 4 screws that you removed.
That is the physical part done, you now need smart to update the software by
connecting it to their Star Computer which will add the correct TAN code.
Only smart have the facility to add the TAN codes to your car.
The TAN code for the cruise control is about £75 and you may have to pay for labour.
It shouldn't take long, they just have to plug into the OBD and update the SAM unit.
My Smart Doesn't Have The Wiring
Not a problem, it's easy to add. Go to smart and order part number Q 0015378V001000000 (cruise control connection with wires) and 3x 000 5402305 (SAM unit pins with wires for N11-8 and N11-9).
On their system it is labelled as a repair kit, what it is however is all the wiring and connector
that you need to wire up the cruise control stalk. 1 connector and 3 wires.
Disconnect the battery (make sure you know your radio code if needed).
Lower the SAM unit so that you can gain access to 2 of the plugs on the top.
You will be removing and adding wires to N11-8 and N11-9 (see below on the left).
To remove the plug you simply press the clip in and swing the plastic lever over (exactly
like the speedo connector).As the lever swings it will push the connector out, you will see
that the large white block houses 2 smaller AMP connections.
With both plugs 8 and 9 you will be working with the connector on the right.
Slide the left connector out as shown below.
Start with plug number 8 and slide out the right hand connector.
You will be attaching the Black/Pink wire of the new wiring to pin 11.
The metal tab just pushed in and will clip in place.
Reassemble plug 8.
The plugs have 2 numbers on each side so you can work out the pin placement.
Remove the right hand connector from plug 9.
Push the Pink/Red wire into pin 7
Push the Green/White wire into pin 10
Reassemble plug 9.
So, to recap.
Pin 1 of new connector to SAM plug 9, pin 7
Pin 2 of new connector to SAM plug 8, pin 11
Pin 3 of new connector to SAM plug 9, pin10.
If you wish to see the list of SAM connections, look here.
Plug everything back into the SAM and reconnect and continue with the previous instructions.
At last we have conformation about the usage on non auto cars.
Ian (Gent from CSC) has confirmed that it does work for softip (manual).
That saves you having to shell out for (rubbish) full auto, it also means you don't need the kickdown enabled accelerator pedal. This will save you even more cash. Many thanks to Ian for the info.
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