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Engine guides and mods

Fit A Cycle Valve

The older, lower powered smarts had a mechanical boost controller instead of the electronic boost controller in the 61bhp models. Fitting this part is cheap and quite easy.

Modification Details


Please bear with me on this one. I was given permission by Massive to reproduce the
fitting guide found in the summer 2003 issue of Smartimes. The original information was
written by Dave Bird but the accuracy is a little vague and confusing.

This is my version of the info but it is not a modification I have performed,
I am reverse engineering my car as it has one fitted already.

The mechanical valve was only fitted on some of the Pure models rated at about 50bhp.

The Cycle Valve

The cycle valve should really be called a boost control solenoid, BCS.
It allows the ECU to control the boost pressure instead of a preset mechanical valve.
The mechanical valve allowed the car to produce in the region of 50bhp to 55bhp.

With the BCS fitted, the power increases to approximately 61bhp.

Fitting The Boost Control Solenoid (Single Port Actuator).

Please note that the diagrams show a 5 port actuator with connections A, B, C, D and E.
The single port actuator will only have connection B.

You will need to buy the boost control solenoid, the part number is 000 3113 V005.
You will also need two short lengths of 2mm inside diameter rubber tubing.

Remove the rear panels, remove the Torx 45 bolts from the crash bar and remove the engine cover.

Look at the top of the engine for a spare electrical connector attached to a bracket.
It will be located somewhere around the circled area below. Pull it from the bracket and thread it down into the engine bay towards the TIK pipe where the BCS will live.

Pull the black/red pipe from the Turbo (connection T).

Attach that pipe to the BCS (connection G)

Take a short length of spare 2mm I/D pipe and
join BCS (connection F) to the turbo (connection T).

Take a look at the wastegate actuator, you should see a short blanking tube
(hopefully WGA connection B). Pull this blanking tube off and using a length of
spare 2mm I/D tube, join this tube to BCS (connection H).

Find the connector that you originally threaded into the engine bay and plug
it into the BCS electrical connector. It will only push in one way around.

Zip tie the BCS to something, preferably to the metal plate that sits
behind the TIK pipe that also holds the Cycle Waste Valve, CWV.

Below shows the BCS and CWV in place.

Connection F is the back part of the BCS (cycle valve) and Connection 3 is the lower
left connection of the CWV. As long as the BCS is firmly secured and all the
added/moved tubes are tightly fitted, everything should work fine.

It may take a while for the ECU to get used to the new addition, disconnecting the
battery for 10 minutes will allow the ECU to get used to it a little quicker.
If you disconnect your battery, remember you need your radio code first.

Fitting The Boost Control Solenoid (5 Port Actuator).

The layout for the 5 port actuator is very slightly different.
Follow the diagrams and the tables on this page to fit your cycle valve.

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