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Exterior guides and mods

453 Facelift LED Headlight Retrofit

Modification Details




This is now a full road-legal guide.

However,

It is a work-around and not exactly the same as how the cars from the factory function.


Read the bottom of the page for the reward for solving the coding issue.



I will still be researching to determine how the factory spec cars dim the DRLs to create a side light.

What Are We Fitting?


These are the facelift full LED headlights. There are no bulbs in these at all.
These headlights were an option from November 2019 onwards (depending on region).



How Much Are They?

People on FaceBook never seem to believe me when I say how much they cost.

They seem to think that 3rd party sellers will sell OEM smart parts for less than a smart dealer.



If your local smart dealer is charging too much, contact a different smart dealer in a different country.

The 1st lot I bought was in December 2019 and they were the same price as when I bought them in March 2020.

Are They Plug And Play?

Unfortunately not. The units are very clever but that makes them complicated.

What Works & What Doesn't?

If you fit them, plug them in and turn the lights on, you will get the low beam coming on.



However, you get no side light, no DRLs and if you try to put the high beam lights on, they flash on for a split
second and then go out. The low beam lights also go out all the time the high beam lights are selected.

When you turn all the lights off and turn off the ignition once again, the indicator lights up continuously for a few minutes.



Why Do The Low Beam Lights Turn Off When The High Beam Is Selected?

Just a quick bit of information that you may not know. The other 453 headlight styles used an H4 bulb. These have 2 filaments.
1 filament for high beam and 1 filament for low beam. Both filaments couldn't be active at the same time as they got too hot.
So, when 1 of the filaments was on, the other would be off.

What Are The Issues That Need Fixing To Make These Lights Legal?

1# The high beam light must come on and stay on.
2# The indicators must flash.
3 #The DRLs must turn off when the indicators are flashing and turn back on afterwards.
4# The DRLs must come on when the car is started.
5# The DRLs must dim to be side lights or separate side lights must light when the headlights are turned on.
6# Main beams won't flash with the stalk unless the dipped beam lights are turned on.

Out Of These 6 Issues, What Have You Fixed?

After 4 weeks of research, I have now fixed all of the issues.

1# High Beam Issue

I've made the high beams come on at the same time as the low beams.



2# Indicator Problem

I've made the indicators flash.



3# DRLs Off When Indicating Problem

I've made the DRLs/side lights turn off when the indicators are functioning (proof of concept on the original lights).



4# DRLs Functioning Problem

The DRLs now come on when the car is started.



5# DRLs Going Off And Side Light Coming On Problem

This was the final hurdle and it's one I eventually worked around to make them fully road-legal.

6# Main Beam Headlights Not Flashing Unless The Low Beams Are Lit



Notice the high beam light flashing up on the speedo but no high beam headlights flashing unless the low beam is on.

LED Ballasts

You have to have 1 ballast for each headlight. These drive all the the LEDs.
If you don't have a ballast, the lights won't work at all.

Thankfully, they are a common unit fitted to many Renaults and Nissans.
You should be able to buy a pair for less than £100 from eBay.



The part number and possible alternatives are listed below.

Headlight Part Numbers

Take these part numbers to your local smart dealer. They cost about £200/€200 each.
Do NOT buy these from 3rd party sellers as you will pay more.

Right Hand Drive - Left Hand Traffic (UK, Australia, Japan)

Nearside - A453 906 72 02
Offside - A453 906 56 02

Left Hand Drive - Right Hand Traffic (Europe, America)

Nearside - A453 906 95 01
Offside - A453 906 96 01

LED Ballast Part Numbers

Renault Nissan 260556623R

Possible Alternative Replacements. I haven't tested any of these myself.

260551225R
260559664R
260556623R
260553401R
260558608R
260555097R

These ballasts can be found on the following cars:

Renault Clio
Renault Megane
Renault Captur
Renault Kadjar
Renault Scenic
Renault Talisman
Renault Koleos
Nissan Micra
Nissan Qashqai
Nissan Juke
Nissan Leaf

I would recommend looking on eBay for these as they are very common on many cars and can be bought cheaply.

The ballast plugs in and screws into place with 15mm long screws.



Fixing The Issues

1# High Beam Coming On With The Low Beam

The problem was that the new LED headlights are clever. The high beam lights would not light unless the low beams were lit.
The problem with the standard car is that the low beams turned off when the high beams were on.
So the headlight wouldn't pass power through to the high beam since the car turned the low beam off.

So we needed the low beam light to stay on in order to allow the high beam light to illuminate.

Once you know how, this is a nice and simple fix. However, it took quite some time for me to find the setting on DDT4All.

Start up DDT4All and connect to the car as mentioned here.

Double click EMM_EDISON_DDT2000 in the 2nd box on the left hand side.



In the 3rd box down on the left hand side, scroll down to EMM_Lighting, click on the arrow to the left of the heading to
expand the options list. Click on EMM_Lighting - Configuration and a load of settings will appear in the main window.



Look down the list to find Nbx_DUAL_BULBS_CF



Click Einstein's face to enter expert mode. Change the 0 to a 1 in the right column and write it to the car.
The car will now know that it has 2 separate bulbs instead of a dual filament single H4 bulb.

The high beam light will now come on correctly and the low beam will stay on too.

2# The Indicators Must Flash

This was as simple as cutting the existing indicator positive wire and wiring it into the back of the headlight.
This wiring changes are covered later on in its own section.

3# DRL/Side Lights Turn Off When Indicators Turn On

Thankfully, this was another setting in DDT4All. This one too even longer to discover.

Start up DDT4All and connect to the car as mentioned here.

Double click EMM_EDISON_DDT2000 in the 2nd box on the left hand side.



In the 3rd box down on the left hand side, scroll down to EMM_Lighting, click on the arrow to the left of the heading to 
expand the options list. Click on EMM_Lighting - Configuration and a load of settings will appear in the main window.



Scroll down to Nbx_DRL_closedto_ID_CF
Click on Einstein's face to enter expert mode, change the 0 to a 1 and write it to the car.



6# Main beams won't flash with the stalk unless the dipped beam lights are turned on.

All credits go to Askold from GoSmart for this fix.
I only noticed the fault a few weeks ago but I was sent the fix before I could have a look myself.

Start up DDT4All and connect to the car as mentioned here.

Double click EMM_EDISON_DDT2000 in the 2nd box on the left hand side.



In the 3rd box down on the left hand side, scroll down to EMM_Lighting, click on the arrow to the left of the heading to
expand the options list. Click on EMM_Lighting - Configuration and a load of settings will appear in the main window.



Click Einstein's face to enter expert mode.

In the main window, look for Nbx_Headlamp_Bi_function_CF
In the 2nd row, change the 0 to 1...



...then click send over to the far right.



The full beams will now flash whenever you pull the light stalk towards you.

DRL & Side Light Issue

This is the final hurdle that I eventually sorted.

Like the high and low beam issue, the DRL wouldn't light just by applying power to the DRL wire.
You also have to apply power to the side light control wire. However, applying power to both will
light the DRL at full brightness but I couldn't find the option to dim it.

On the standard car settings, the DRL and side light control wire wouldn't both power up at the same time.
The car would power 1 up when the car was started and then flip the power over to the control wire when the headlights
are turned on. Because both wires don't receive power at the same time, the DRL would not light.

I have tried many of the settings in DDT4All but nothing worked. It could be that it requires 2 settings changed.
Look on DDT4All for settings containing the words PWM and DRL and have a mess around.

Remember your old settings before messing with them. If you find out the fix before me, let me know.

Quick (But Not Road Legal) Workaround

Disconnect pin 2,
Connect the wire to pin 1 to also go to pin 2.

The DRLs will come on with the ignition.
The DRL's will turn off when you indicate.

However...

When you turn the headlights on, the DRLs will turn off.

Technically this isn't road legal as you require a side light which should be the DRL but dimmed.


Road Legal Side Light Option


Halogen Side Lights

Since we are moving the indicators from the front bumper and into the headlights,
we can reuse the indicator housings to be used as side lights. All you should need
to do is change the PY21W bulb to a 5 watt bulb that fits the connector.

Then connect headlight wire 2 to the new bulb. See the wiring addendum below.

The problem here was that the standard PY21W bulb has offset pins (BAU15s base) and the only bulbs
you can get with that type of base are 21 Watts. That high a wattage is legally too bright for a side light.



What I did was purchase BAU15s bulbs in clear instead of orange but 24 volts instead of 12 volts.
Running a 24 volt bulb at 12 volts will reduce the output to an almost perfect Wattage.



24 Volts @ 0.86 Amps = 20.6 Watts (close to the 21 Watt rating)
12 Volts @ 0.5 Amps = 6 Watts (close to the desired 5 Watt requirement)



To swap the bulbs, find the indicator bulb holder...



...twist...



...and pull. Remove the orange indicator bulb and fit the BAU15s, 24 Volt, 21 Watt bulb.



They are still a bit yellow looking which many people may not want.



LED Side Lights

Light the halogen lights, I decoded to keep trying different 24 volt LED bulbs until I found some that dimmed at 12 volts.
I was lucky 1st time. I was convinced that LED bulbs would be multi voltage but these dimmed right down.

I bought these ones.



Only about 6 Watts so not super bright in the day.



But they are a nice crisp white unlike the halogen bulbs.



Wiring Change

Nearside Headlight Back.



Nearside Headlight Wiring Connector.

Pin Number Wire Colour Function
1 Grey DRL Power
2 Blue DRL Control
3 Green Low Beam
4 Black Earth
5 Grey High Beam
6 Pink Indicator

Cut blue wire (pin 2). Remove sheathing partially from grey wire (pin 1). Attach blue wire to grey wire.



Look at the original indicator light connector on the back of the bumper. You DON'T want the Black/white wire.

On mine, the nearside wire that we want is pink/white.



Cut this wire.



Connect the pink/white wire from the bulb connector to the remaining blue wire coming from the car's wiring harness.



Cut pink wire (pin 6).



Connect the pink/white wire from the wiring loom to the pink wire of the headlight connector.



You will have 1 remaining pink wire left coming from the car's wiring harness. We don't need this wire. Tape it up.

OK, I'll now explain it again on the other side. I'll do it in a different order so you can follow both methods
and double check all of what you are doing is correct.


Offside Headlight Back



Nearside Headlight Wiring Connector.


Pin Number Wire Colour Function
1 Grey DRL Power
2 Blue DRL Control
3 Green Low Beam
4 Black Earth
5 Grey High Beam
6 Pink Indicator

Cut the blue wire (pin 2), strip some sheath back from the grey wire (pin 1), wire them together.

Cut the pink wire (pin 6).



Look at the original indicator light connector on the back of the bumper. You DON'T want the Black/white wire.

On mine, the nearside wire that we want is green/white. Cut this wire.



The other remaining cut end of the blue wire, extend it with extra wire down to...



...the green/white wire going to the original indicator bulb connector.



The remaining green/white wire coming from the bumper wiring loom, extend that with a piece of wire to...



...the pink wire going to the headlight connector.



And for a 3rd time in the form of a diagram so I get less emails asking about it.



Obviously, DO A BETTER JOB AT CONNECTING THESE WIRES!

I was just doing these temporarily to prove it worked. and I was waiting for glue lined heat shrink to be delivered.
Don't use connectors unless they are waterproof and vibration proof.

Solder all connections and seal the joins with adhesive lined heat shrink.



Do not cut corners with the wiring.


Making The DRLs Dim To Be Sidelights

This is still being worked on. This is the final step to making the car function like from the factory.

The DRLs only work when you apply a voltage to 2 pins at the same time (pins 1 and 2).

Pin 1 is the DRL voltage wire.
Pin 2 is the DRL control wire.

So, pin 2 is obviously the connection that controls the intensity of the DRLs.


What About Reducing The Voltage To Pin 2?

I did try it but it's clearly not the correct way to do it as it didn't function very well.
I knew it wasn't the way because the ratings on the headlight state the voltage.

DRL - Day Time Running Lights - 13.5 volts
PL - Parking Lights - 13.5 volts
TI - Turn Indicators - 13.5 volts
HB - High Beam - 13.5 volts
LB - Low Beam - 13.5 volts

SM - Maybe Side Markers (Simon G) but that's the same as Parking Lights - 13.5 volts.



What About PWM?

My initial thought was a pulse width modulation signal but my PWM generator didn't create the desired effect.
However, a lot of cheap PWM generators are shit and don't go down to 0 volts. I may have to make one.

I believe that a true PWM that alternates between 0 volts and full voltage would work.
Probably something around 40% would be perfect.

In a standard car, the BCM would be creating this PWM output.

What Does The Beam Pattern Look Like?

This is the light output for 1 LED headlight for a UK car. Nearly perfect and better than the normal headlights.



If You Work Out Before Me...

Please let me know. I know this is like asking for a pet unicorn since people are generally too greedy to share.

It is apparently possible to code the car to work as it does from the factory. There is 1 guy who has done it.
Sadly he's keeping quiet about how it's done. I don't blame him as he's running a business.

Reward

If you can tell me exactly how to code the car to make these lights work, I will check it and if it works,
I will send you £250 through PayPal.

What If I Don't Like Cutting Wires?

Luckily (for you), there's a company who has piggy packed off of my hard work and now offer a kit.

Wiring adapters
Coding dongle


Click if Info Helpful

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