450 Rear Window Leaks
If you have broken one, have a leak or want to tint them, take them out and fix it.
My Rear Side Plastic Windows Leak
It's quite a common problem, usually down to a damaged foam seal.
Follow the instructions below and check the foam seal for damage.
Clean both parts and repair or replace the foam seal if needed.
You can easily recreate these foam seals using sticky backed foam seals,
This sort of product can be bought from a good builders merchant.
You can use 2 layers of the replacement foam strip or, if the original strip is too flat,
you can add a layer on top of the original foam strip to bulk it out.
Alternatively you can do a search for closed cell foam strip.
Although the idea of bonding the windows back in with silicone sounds like a good idea,
make sure you get it right because if you don't, you won't get them back out again.
It's a bodge that even I don't recommend.
Alternative To Silicone Sealant
Mark R contacted me to say that he had resealed his rear quarter windows using a product
called Plumber Mait. It's a non setting putty designed to stop water ingress.
Because it doesn't set it means that the windows can be removed at a later date.
Removing The Windows
Locate the main clip at the bottom of the inside of the window.
The clips are easy to break and you can't really do this carefully.
Lever the clip towards the back of the car about 2mm and lever outwards slightly.
Then lever the clip down about 2mm and lever out.
Don't worry if you break these corner clips, smart sell replacements.
Q 0003662V003000000 left hand clip
Q 0003663V003000000 right hand clip
If, miraculously, you manage to remove the clips OK but break the frames, part numbers are:
Q 0000658V008000000 right hand frame
Q 0000657V008000000 left hand frame
Thanks to Mike F for those numbers
As you can see, there are 4 clips in total. The 2 sticking out each side hook under the
rest of the surround, the 2 internal lugs clip into the surround.
The trim is now loose, hold the rear edge and pull inwards then out.
Hold the front of the surround and pull to the centre, the surround should now be free.
The window can now be slid backwards and off of the car.
This is the only clip holding the window on with the surround removed.
With the window out, check the rubber seal for damage or water ingress.
Wipe the inside where the window was situated.
Clean the body work hidden by the window and check for water marks
that may show if/where the water is getting into the car.
Refitting it reverse of removal, the trim should be replaced with the top corner first.
Line the main clip up before pushing it all the way back in. Alternative Refitting
Alastair M tried something new which could allow for better sealing. Instead of sliding the window
back in place onto the plastic peg (which obviously displaces a lot of the sealant used), he removed
the plastic peg from the car body, placed it into the correct position on the window so the sealant
can be placed over the existing foam seal and then the window pushed straight onto the car.
In his own words:
My tip would be to pry out the little nylon clip from the tridion, then you can put a bead of
plumbers mait on top of the old seal and offer the whole thing up to the tridion flat on without
having to try and slide it on and spread this incredibly sticky shit everywhere. You then give the
top corner where the clip is a tap with your hand and the whole thing seals on cleanly.