Tools And Other Items Required:
Drill and 7mm bit
A wooden spatula or lolly stick (to ease the window glass around the seals)
Qty 4 M6 x 12 screws, Qty 4 nuts and washers (narrow profile nuts ie locknuts won’t fit)
10mm spanner and another 10mm spanner or Allen key to secure M6 screws and nuts
Thread lock compound eg Loctite™
Grease (red vegetable grease is ideal)
Chris had to replace this window regulator, which had disintegrated. Be careful : the sound of it shattering is similar
to breaking glass so unless it’s obvious, remove the door panel first to determine buying a new glass or regulator!
2 cables and two tensioning springs. Note – LH and RH are different.
Remove the door panel.
screws in the removed item – or keep the screws next to the item. You will end up with
screws everywhere and you need to know what belongs to what.
Using a Torx 27 to remove these 2 screws on the regulator then slide the window up.
Even if you are just changing this regulator , remove the window anyway.
panel and slide forward and down to disengage the two retaining lugs on the rear of the panel.
it into place. The bad news? Don’t even think about just putting the 2 existing cables into the new regulator.
When you try it would probably seem that the cables are about 3 inches too short! This is almost certainly
due to the cables loosening on the spool and looping over themselves inside the spool cover (arrow).
the new regulator like this. It’s a tight fit but persevere. Now dab a finger full of grease over them both. I don’t
recommend greasing everywhere else yet, it will go all over you and everywhere as you refit the cables and spool!
enough clearance to stop the cables popping out. Which they will if you don’t.
contacting the bracket. My reasoning was to remove it to give as much cable slack as I could.
are attached to the spool here for the lower cable (and via a similar attachment for the upper
cable, the longer one.) Note how the upper cable is wound on the spool nearest the door.
wind each round. It will be obvious how many turns are needed. Place the spool over the gearbox spline.
M6 x 12 screws and standard (not locking) nuts. I also bought washers although fitting these blindly then
sliding the nut across by feel might be too much for most mortals. If patience is by now depleted,
leaving the washers off shouldn’t be a problem. And nobody will ever know.
bracket so you know it’s in place. I also used hex head screws as, with a bit of grease, it allows the
screw to stick to the end of the Allen key and makes it easier to position the screw. Considering
it’s a Smart Car, a Torx head screw might have been more elegant!
Switch on the ignition and test the movement (without the window).
inside each channel. As it slowly moves down, there will be a bit of shuffling/small rotating involved.
As it lowers down, use the lolly stick to carefully open any errant seals (usual suspects are arrowed).
the washers to the outside of the window. They also tend to snap off the stalk but that’s not an issue.
You then have to remove the door panel and fit them.
Thanks to Chris M for sending in this information.