Roadster Island SMD LEDs
The Roadster uses a great deal more surface mounted LEDs than the For2 which restricts the changing and what colour filters you can use.
Each of the SMD LEDS on the Roadster are PLCC-2 (TANTAL/B) and they
are a very common fitment and should cost less than 50p each.
On rare occasions, smart have used 4.0 x 4.0 right angled SMD LEDs
CrazyLeds can change your SMD LEDs for you. Just ask them.
SMD Orientation
Like most LEDs, they only work one way around. Standard LEDs are marked with a single flat edge and 1 shorter leg. The SMD LEDs have a recessed triangle in the corner, these are marked as red in the pictures.
Soldering SMD LEDs
The first job is to remove the existing LEDs, you have 3 ways to remove them:
1. Use two soldering irons, one on each joint and flick the LED off;
2. Use one soldering iron and a solder sucker, can be awkward because of the size;
3. Use one soldering iron and some solder wick to remove the excess.
Once the board has been purged of LEDs, clean the board up and flux the solder pads on the board and LEDs. Position one of the replacements and quickly solder each side.
The 'normal' way to solder is to touch the tip to the device and push the
solder against the tip and the device until it melts. When soldering SMDs
this isn't recommended as the heat will kill it.
It is better to melt the solder onto the tip and quickly dab the soldered tip onto the LED, this limits the heat transfer, a flux pen will help the solder flow to the LED quickly shortening the time even more.
Once they have all been done, visually check the whole thing before testing, if any of
them don't work then check the solder joint and the orientation of the LED.
Remove the PCB, desolder the LEDs as mentioned above, solder in your new ones with the
correct orientation as shown above, refit and test. Yours should look like this (if you did blue).
The hazard switch light works best if left red but works ok in other colours.